From the dining room at Hermans, Stockholm’s best-known veggie restaurant, you can watch the boats plying their way between the city’s islands throughout your meal. Even on a grey, misty day, the view is enchanting. On the right of the photo, a folded sunshade waits for warmer weather before welcoming customers to a table on the terrace.
We went there on a Wednesday because that’s when the lunchtime buffet is 100% vegan. For 100 SEK* you can pile your plate with a wide choice of hot and cold dishes. Coffee and a selection of teas and tisanes are included. I ate all this…
… leaving a little room for one of the desserts which, like other drinks, cost extra.
Hermans is at Fjällgatan 23B, on the north-east corner of Södermalm island. Remember to book a table by the window to enjoy the view.
Much smaller, but in my opinion offering even better food, is Hermitage, at Stora Nygatan 6, in the heart of the Old Town (Gamla Stan). The lunch menu is similar – buffet plus hot drinks – and we ate very well there for 90 SEK*. The bread rolls were excellent.
Just across the street at Stora Nygatan 11, you’ll find Sattva Naturbageriet, an organic bakery selling vegan bread and cakes. The company’s main outlet is at Krukmakargatan 27A.
At Chutney (Katarina Bangata 17-19), the vegetarian and vegan dishes are particularly attractively presented, so it was a shame my camera decided to go on strike that day. Be warned: the portions are American-sized. Not knowing whether they had also adopted the transatlantic custom of doggy bags and not daring to ask, I was once again forced to clear my plate.
The same thing happened at Abyssinia, Vanadisvägen 20, an Ethiopian restaurant a short walk from our hotel.
Samples of specialities (veggie, vegan or including meat) from this elegant cuisine are served on large pancake-style breads. Everything was delicious, original and superbly spicy. The desserts looked more mundane, which was just as well because we couldn’t have managed another mouthful.
The warm welcome and attentive service made for a particularly pleasant evening.
Another, larger Abyssinia can be found at Ringvägen 105, in the south of the Södermalm district.
It’s as well to remember that people in Sweden eat early (often at around 6pm) so check restaurant opening times if you plan to dine out.
Tasty and affordable lunches are also available at the city’s covered markets. We looked around three of them.
In the Östermalm market, Planet Food sells a variety of vegan sandwiches and freshly made juices. At the food market on the fifth and sixth floors of Söderhallarna, a new shopping centre, it’s easy to find a veggie snack: try Beirut Café Deli, for instance (vegans can ask for a "mezetallrik" without yogurt). The more multicultural basement market at Hötorget will delight fans of chocolate and Middle Eastern sweetmeats.
Finally, here’s a short list of veg-friendly Stockholm restaurants we didn’t get around to visiting. Next time…
Lao Wai (Chinese, vegetarian), Luntmakargatan 74
Govindas (Indian, vegetarian), Fridhemsgatan 22
Legumes (veggie buffet), Hornsgatan 80
Malaysia (vegetarian and vegan options), Luntmakargatan 98
Kokyo (vegetarian and vegan options), Sveavägen 105
* Swedish kronor. Check the latest exchange rates here.